COSME: Creative Mexican by Chef Enrique Olvera

Cosme NYC - Cobia al Pastor

Dear Food Diary:
Before Cosme landed in NYC, the words creative and Mexican food didn’t seem to make the news. After tasting Mexican celebrity Chef Enrique Olvera’s creations, you understand all the buzz.

Unforgettable dishes and flavors made my last dinner with Terry foodjournies.com (before her trip around the world and move to SF) that much more memorable. What a delicious way to end a chapter with a foodie friend.

Cosme NYC
The decor was slick, but with most modern furniture, the grills on some chairs by the bar weren’t exactly comfortable. As I grabbed a cocktail at the bar, I got up on that stool in the most unlady like way possible. Not sure anyone can make that look pretty, unless you’ve got Victoria Secret model length legs.

Service was really friendly and warm.

All corn and cheese are imported from Mexico. All milled and made in-house. 

Cosme NYC - Blue Corn Tostadas
Blue Corn Tostadas
Thin and crunchy with a dip that reminded me of a spicy chimichurri. Strong flavors of habanero, roasted tomato, garlic and onions made it incredibly versatile.

 

Cosme NYC - Cocktail

Paloma  Cimarron Reposado, house made grapefruit syrup, lime, soda, grapefruit salt
It’s girly and citrusy. Great balance of flavors, kind of like a boozy grapefruit soda. Refreshing and sweet. One more please!

El Ninja  Union Mezcal, Beefteater Gin, Cocchi Amerericano Vermouth, shiso shrub, ginger, lime, dehydrated pineapple
Interesting flavor combo, love that pop of pineapple.

 

Cosme NYC - Menu
Simple menu of small dishes to be share.

 

Cosme NYC - Smoked raw sepia
Smoked raw sepia, salsa mexicana, avocado
Smokey ribbons of tender and “slippery” pasta. There’s a subtle sweetness that plays nicely with the tartness of the bright salsa. Perfectly seasoned with a creamy finish. The flavors revealed themselves in layers on my tongue. Perfecto!

Cosme NYC - Cobia al Pastor
Cobia al pastor, pineapple, cilantro
The fish was so tender, sweet and very meaty. There was such a punch of concentrated pineapple flavor. The pineapple mousse on the side was superb. Delicious puree of pure fruit and herb oil. So good.

Cosme NYC - Cobia al Pastor - tortilla
Wrapped in fresh corn tortillas, it’s sweet, savory and bright.  A few bites with jalepeno on top. One of the best things I’ve wrapped in a taco for sure. The corn tortillas themselves had a lot of sweet corn flavor. Warm and soft.

 

Cosme NYC - Enfrijoladas
Enfrijoladas, ricotta, hoja santa, creme fraiche, onion
Deep and luscious, there was so much depth in every forkful of the bean “paste”. Terry said it reminded her of the best beef noodle soup. For me it was more like a Mexican Zha Jiang Mien. The sauce was loaded with a smooth pool of silky bean puree, herbs, garlic and onion. The crispy shell added the beautiful contrast in texture. We literally licked that plate clean.

 

Cosme NYC - Chilaquiles
Chilaquiles, salsa roja, queso fresco, runny egg
Who can resist a sexy runny egg? Right? The salsa rona had a nice spicy kick. The tomato flavors were present but not overpowering. Their corn tortillas were crispy but not your usual greasy and oily version. Even with all that sauce, it mostly remained crunchy. So many flavors and textures in one mouthful. This is this fanciest chilaquiles I’ve ever had.

 

By this point, we were both very satisfied, but were still hoping for something savory before dessert. The brioche (on the dessert menu) had more savory than sweet notes – was a seamless transition…

Cosme NYC - Brioche
Brioche, tomato-chipotle marmalade, ricotta salata
Soft brioche, a sweet and thick tomato-chipotle marmalade. Not spicy but full of delicate smokey flavor. A little sweet and tart from the tomatoes. The creamy ricotta and honey were a superb combo. I wouldn’t pick this as the only dessert, unless you really don’t have a sweet tooth. Solid dish nonetheless.

 

Now that famous dessert that’s been all over #foodporn Instagram… 

Cosme NYC - husk meringue
Husk meringe, corn mouse
WOW. I totally get the obsession. This is unlike any dessert I’ve had. Melt in my mouth meringue, just the right amount of sweetness contrasting the creamy corn lava with hints of salt. Sweet and salty playfulness. The meringue itself carries a faint nutty aroma, sort of like black sesame.

Cosme NYC - husk meringue - 2
You have to try this!

 

Cosme NYC - tea
I always end my meals with hot tea and was shocked by the $2.75 price tag. I’ve always felt like I pay way too much for tea at restaurants. Glad to see they kept it real.

 

Cosme NYC - food bloggers at work
Here’s Terry and I doing our thing. Food blogger get-togethers are always extra fun. She will be missed.

Overall, I really enjoyed our meal at Cosme. Surprised by unexpected flavors and techniques. This is definitely a meal I want to repeat. Can’t wait to bring StalkerHubby pronto.

 

P.S. Chubby’s Rating:chubby rating 5

cosmenyc.com
35 E 21st St. New York, NY 10010
212.913.9659

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